Axle R&R

The dreaded knocking sound... Sooner or later, every FWD car deals with this problem. The sound will make itself most apparent when taking slow, tight turns near full-lock of the steering wheel. It can be caused by any number of variables.

Just for kicks, let's list some of 'em:

1. Vehicle involved in a severe front-end collision with direct/indirect damage to suspension components, frame, axles, engine subframe, front end frame
2. Drivetrain misaligned in relation to drive axles and outboard hubs
3. Constant, severe use in racing-type conditions
4. Constant velocity (CV) joints overpowered and stressed by engine output
5. Old age (the least of all evils)

If this is your first time pulling and replacing an axle, it will be difficult and seem impossible at times. But, trust me, after one time, you'll be able to both axles in under 2 hours easily.

Parts and odd tools needed:
1. 32mm socket for axle nuts (impact-type if using with air tools)
2. Assortment of pry bars
3. Sledge hammer
4. Breaker bars
5. Drain pan with > 3 quart capacity
6. ~2.7 quarts of your favorite 75W-90 tranny oil
7. Left and/or right axle seal at tranny case
8. Left and/or right axle assy
   I didn't list any part numbers because you have to look at which type of axles you have; either the "traditional" axles or the axles with the bolt-on inboard joints.

Procedure:
1. If possible, bring your car to a really close garage and have them bust loose the axle nuts w/ an air gun
2. Tighten by hand with breaker bar for the short drive home
3. Raise and set front end of car on jack stands
4. Remove front wheels
5. Remove filler plug bolt, then drain plug bolt on tranny case
6. Drain tranny fluid into suitable container
7. Install drain plug bolt
8. Remove tie rod castle nuts
9. Remove 2 nuts and 1 bolt holding the hub assembly to the lower arm, but leave hub assy on lower arm
10. Remove axle nut
11. Take pry bar and strategically place on one of the inset ribs on the inboard and hammer towards outboard direction;
    When you see a decent amount of the shiny inboard axle end, you're there
12. Remove hub assy from lower arm
13. Slide inboard axle end out of tranny case
14. Slide outboard axle end out of hub assy
15. Replace axle seal at tranny case
16. Install new/rebuilt axle assy
17. Repeat for other side
18. Torque lower arm fasteners to 105 ft-lbs and tie rod castle nut to 36 ft-lbs
19. Torque axle nut to 137 ft-lbs
20. Install new cotter pin on axle lock nut cap
21. Install new cotter pin on tie rod castle nut
22. Install wheels and lug nuts
23. Drop car down onto level ground
24. Fill tranny with ~2.7 quarts of oil through the filler hole until it starts dribbling out