Replace spark plugs. You can use platinum plugs as specified by Toyota, but I prefer the "regular"
ones. Plugs are cheap and are easily replaced. I use NGK BCP6ES copper plugs for my '88 GT-S.
Check the spark plug cords for obvious cracks or exposed wire.
Check that the ignition timing is 10° BTDC. Start the engine and make sure that it's at normal
operating temp--wait after the radiator fan runs. Short terminals "T" & "E1" at the diagnostic connector
that's on the left strut tower. It's black and is labeled "DIAGNOSTIC" on the cap, duh! =) You'll
know if you properly shorted the terminals if the idle speed drops a little. Bust out your timing
gun (er, light) and point it at your eyes, whereupon you will be placed in a trance; you will now be
at the mercy of others! Now, you're ready to check the timing. Point it at the crank pulley,
depress the trigger, and peek through the accessory drive belts. The TDC (top dead center)
mark on the crank pulley should be at the 10° mark on the left of the 0° mark. The
timing marks on the left of the 0° mark are BTDC, or advanced. Conversely, those on the right
of the 0° mark are ATDC, or retarded. Loosen the two 12 mm bolts that hold down the distributor onto the
head. Slowly turn the distributor assembly depending on where you want the timing to go. Play
around with it and you'll get the timing on 10° BTDC. When you're done, tighten the 2 bolts and
recheck the ignition timing. Remove the wire that you used to short the diagnostic terminals
and further check the timing by making sure that it is more than 16° BTDC.
Check drive belts for cracks, tears, glazing, etc.
Check all of the fluid levels. Brake, clutch, steering, coolant reservoir, oil, or even the
transaxle if you're so inclined.
Disable the dashpot system. All it basically does is slow down the TB's butterfly valve when it
snaps shut. That way, there's a decreased chance of unburnt fuel going out of the exhaust
ports and increasing your emissions. If your original dashpot is as old as mine, it's not as
smooth as it used to be and may even stay open more than it should. What's the end result? Even
though you properly adjusted the idle speed and then blipped the throttle, the dashpot will act
as a stop and force the TB to stay cracked open and cause your idle to go up to 1200 rpm. All
you need to do is turn the adjustment screw until it the dashpot no longer comes into contact
with the throttle valve pulley stop. That's all there is to it.
Optional: Adjust idle speed. With the engine at normal operating temperature, the
accessories off, cooling fan off, and the transmission in neutral, check the idle speed.
Nominally, it should be around 800 rpm. If not, adjust the idle speed screw on the throttle body.
It is normally covered by a black rubber plug on the TB closest to the firewall.
Optional: Oil change.
Optional: Coolant flush/change. Empty the coolant into a suitable container for disposal,
refill the system with regular water and a "radiator flush additive," and run the engine for a
few minutes at normal operating temperature with the heater setting on "full heat" and the fan
on. I like to flush the system two times to make sure that I get all of the crap outta the system.
You can even "reverse flush" the system by going against the normal flow of coolant, but please,
make sure that the engine's cold before you add cold tap water into the block. Rinse out the
system with distilled water. I'd recommend replacing the thermostat at this time--it's cheap
insurance. I like to use Water Wetter by Redline to help keep things a little bit cooler.
If you choose to use it and live in an area that doesn't experience freezing temps, then use a
20/80 or 30/70 coolant/water mixture. The less coolant you have in a system with Water Wetter, the more
heat it can carry and dissipate. If you live where it gets really cold, stick with a 50/50 mix.
Refill the system with the proper mixture of coolant and distilled water, jack up the front end
so that the radiator cap is above the rest of the system, leave the radiator cap off, run the
engine for a few minutes at normal operating temperature with the heater and fan on, and squeeze
the radiator hoses every once in a while to make sure you've got all of the air out of the system.
You'll prob'ly have found that the coolant level's gone down a little bit. Top it off, then close
the radiator cap and top off the reservoir.
Optional: Check all of your lights. Turn on all of the lights and make sure that no bulbs
are burnt out. The last thing you want is some idiot crashing into you and using the excuse, "I
didn't see the brake lights, turn signals..."
