Ignition System


NOTE: The following data only apply to the '88-'89 4A-GE. They may be similar to earlier 4A-GE ignition systems, but use at your own risk.

Firing order 1-3-4-2
Timing T-E1 diagnostic terminals shorted
Diagnostic terminals not shorted
10° BTDC
> 16° BTDC
Spark plugs OEM (Platinum) ND PQ16R
NGK BCPR5EP11
Suggested (Copper) NGK BCP6ES
Factory spark plug gap 0.043"
High tension cords Maximum resistance 25 kOhms per cord
Ignition coil Primary coil resistance (cold)
Secondary coil resistance (cold)
0.4-0.5 Ohms
10.2-13.8 Ohms
Distributor sensor air gaps Ne Pickup (cylinder TDC)
G Pickup (#1 TDC)
0.008-0.016"
0.008-0.016"
Distributor sensor resistance Ne Pickup (flatter/wider plug)
G Pickup (rounder/narrower plug)
140-180 Ohms
140-180 Ohms


Words of advice...

If you're thinking about getting "cheap horsepower" and advancing the ignition timing over stock specs... DON'T! Unlike most car manufacturers, Toyota actually did their homework and came out with the best timing. I've seen some dyno print outs where only the ignition timing was changed and the best power was indeed at stock specs. If you're still a hard-ass and plan to advance the timing anyway, don't go any more than 12° BTDC. Sure, you may gain a teeny-weeny bit of power, but any more than that and the engine will ping at certain loads and rpm. Trust me, I've tried!

    Thinking about aftermarket ignition coils, modules, etc? Fuh-getaboutit... Honestly, they're a waste of money on naturally aspirated motors with more-than capable ignition systems like the 4A-GE. I'd recommend upgrading the ignition system if and only if you are:
  1. Experiencing crappy gas mileage and lousy power because your OEM ignition system just plain sucks (this doesn't particularly apply to Toyotas I've worked on),
  2. Running forced induction at > 14 psi,
  3. Running high cylinder pressures because of forced induction and/or domed pistons,
  4. Running a Formula Atlantic-type motor that regularly sees > 9,000 rpm (10,000 rpm to be exact).

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