KBD Header

Here you see the 17mm bolts/nuts and springs I used to keep the flex joint snug and leak-free. I've run
the engine to redline in 2nd gear and didn't hear any exhaust leaks, so I think it'll hold up just fine.
NOTE: See how close the flange is to the engine center member? If you don't
rotate the flange out of the way, you'll hear a metallic rattle/knocking when the engine experiences dynamic
loading (starting f/ a stop, shifting at redline, hard acceleration during autox'ing, etc.).

You get a better view of the clearance over the engine subframe. I may wrap the section of pipe closest
to the inboard CV joint boot w/ heat tape to lessen the chance of it melting. You can kinda see the rear
engine/tranny mount and its through-bolt alongside the pipe.

You'll have to get some 8x1.25mm (30mm length) bolts and use the OEM nuts to mount the O2 sensor. To
make it easier on yourself, you should get rid of the OEM cat inlet bracket/shield fasteners and replace
'em w/ new nuts and bolts f/ your local hardware store. It was hard making sure that the OEM cat gasket
was still in place while bolting everything up. Oh, and there's my baby blue //TRD bar. =)
Gripes? Oh Yeah...
Like most non-OEM, aftermarket components, there has to be some fitment and/or installation problems.
As such, I think the already high-quality KBD header can be improved in some areas:
- The supplied header-to-head gasket is cheap and flimsy at best
- The welding jig needs to be better aligned--it's close, but I had to bang the OEM EGR pipe into place
- The right-most bolt hole on the header flange doesn't line up even close to the bolt hole on the head. I
need to enlarge the hole w/ a Dremel tool
- The intermediate pipe's inlet face needs to be grinded--the pipes stick out of the flange and will
interfere w/ proper sealing
- The primary header-to-intermediate pipe gasket is also pressed cardboard
- The supplied fasteners for the primary-to-intermediate pipes are a joke--they're dinky little things
which would NOT stand up to the kind of abuse my car usually sees
- There are no supplied fasteners for the intermediate-to-pre-cat flex joint
- A portion of the pre-cat pipe (where it curves over the engine subframe) is a bit too high. As a
result, when the car's front end is raised and the wheels drop, the right inboard CV joint boot will be
a few mm away. What better way to cook and melt the boot?
- No supplied fasteners for the O2 sensor
- O2 sensor mount is too long--the sensor isn't fully exposed to the exhaust gas stream
- The interface between the pre-cat pipe and the cat isn't that great, although you can still use an OEM
gasket

Parts you'll need to do a nice installation (~$30 worth) :
- OEM or custom-made copper sandwich primary header gasket
- 3 sets of SS bolts, nuts, and washers for the primary-to-intermediate pipe joint
- Custom-made copper sandwich for the primary-to-intermediate pipe joint
- 2 sets of SS bolts, nuts, washers, and high rate springs for the pre-cat pipe-to-intermediate pipe
flex joint
- 2 8x1.25mm, 30mm length bolts for O2 sensor (use old nuts unless frozen or rounded)
- OEM gasket for cat inlet
- 2 sets of SS bolts, nuts, and washers for the pre-cat pipe-to-cat joint
- Thermal barrier material (cloth or tape) for the starter and other nearby wires
Installation tips:
- Make sure that the fasteners you use are stainless steel--less prone to corrode and rust f/ exposure to
high heat and environment
- Test fit the primary header and make sure that all of the bolt holes line up. If they don't, you'll have
to enlarge the holes by using a 7/16" drill bit
- Look inside the pipes and look for any metal material sticking out; EGR port, O2 sensor port, etc.
- Give the areas w/ welds 1 or 2 coats of high-temp paint available at any auto parts store
- Be sure to use an anti-seize compound to all fasteners to make it easier on you later on--less frozen
nuts and bolts
- When everything looks like it'll fit nicely, install the primary header and loosely install 2 nuts on the
head studs to hold it in place
- Loosely attach the pre-cat and intermediate pipes together
- Slide the 2 pipes into place and loosely install all fasteners
- When everything looks like it's lined up nicely, tighten everything down
- Start the engine and check for any leaks, especially when the exhaust pipes are cold
NOTE: When you first start the car w/ the new header installed, you'll see lots of smoke coming
from BOTH the header's exterior and the tailpipe itself. Don't be alarmed (unless your car was already
coughing up a lot of smoke before the installation!). It's just the paint and greasy film left after the
manufacturing process. Run it on the freeway for 10-15 minutes and it will clear up right away. Just don't
let the cops catch you cuz the KBD header carries no CARB Exemption Order number.
Opinions After The Install...
The engine seems to pull harder from as low as 2000 rpm in the first 3 gears. Past 4400 prm (the TVIS
switchover point), the engine charges a little bit faster to redline than before. Also, no matter what
the condition, the engine doesn't ping like before. I plan on doing some runs on a dyno to see exactly
how much power the engine's making. It'd be nice if I did a baseline run before I installed the KBD header,
but I was pressed for time and had to get the car prepped for an autox event the next day. Aside f/ the
small, nagging details I wrote, I'm happy w/ the header.
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