Pressing out the old input shaft rear bearing. I'm all for affordable tools, but you
really shouldn't skimp on the bearing separator. There's so much force going into it that it can
easily shatter and send schrapnel everywhere. As always, wear eye protection. I can still remember
the loud metallic "ping" when the bearing finally budged from the shaft.
A completely disassembled input shaft. 1st column, top to bottom: rear bearing,
4th gear, 4th gear needle roller bearing, snap ring, spacer, 4th gear synchro. 2nd column, top
to bottom: # 2 shift hub, 3rd gear synchro, 3rd gear, 3rd gear needle roller bearing.
A completely disassembled output shaft. 1st column, top to bottom: rear bearing,
4th driven gear, spacer, 3rd driven gear, 2nd gear, 2nd gear needle roller bearing, spacer, snap
ring, 2nd gear synchro, # 1 shift hub, 1st gear synchro, 1st gear, 1st gear needle roller bearing,
thrust washer (detent at 12 o'clock position for ball bearing).
Old 1st and 2nd gear synchro (they're the same on pre-9104 production) compared to
the new synchro. Notice the totally different synchro face design. It looks like Toyota really
beefed up the design to cope with the prevalent 1st and 2nd gear synchro failures.
The old synchro is just your average serrated face with reliefs cut into it. As
previously mentioned, the 1st and 2nd gear synchros are the same on the pre-9104 production models.
Toyota changed the synchro and # 1 shift hub design during 9104-9106 production, so watch out for
that.
Now, take a closer look at the latest synchro design. Instead of a serrated soft metal
face, it looks to be some sort of ceramic compound with different serrations. Toyota gets a cookie
for this one...
There's the old, stock open diff on the left and the new Quaife LSD on the right.
Look at where the speedo drive gear is on the old diff--you'll need to pull the bearing in order to
remove the speedo drive gear. Since a new speedo drive gear was pretty cheap, I decided to just get
a new one and not fool with the old diff bearing. The bolts holding the final drive ring to the Quaife
are missing the lock plates. I just did a quick test-fit.
If you've ever pulled the axles out of your stock tranny and look through the void,
you'll notice a bar that runs through it. That's the pinion that you see. Now repeat after me:
"Open diffs are the evil incarnate and should be banished!"
A closer look at the Quaife Automatic Torque Biasing (ATB) diff. Once again, this
was just a test fit, which explains the missing lock plates for the bolts.