The Rebuild Project

After racking up a little over 192K miles (51K miles in the past 4 years) on the original engine and tranny, my 4A-GE just didn't feel as healthy as before. Plus, I don't think that the previous owner took good care of the engine. I was seriously hoping that I'd reach at least 200K miles before I had to rebuild the motor.

On 12/11/98, after my last final, I parked my car in the garage where it won't budge until the whole rebuild process is done. I already ordered the major parts from CAP 2 weeks before so that I would have time to get the right parts if they were wrong. Unfortunately, CAP was in the middle of moving its business location (a bigger warehouse for more parts stock), so it was a bit hard for 'em to juggle customers' orders and keeping the inventory straight during the move. I was told that my parts were shipped on 12/9/98. I especially needed the pistons so that the machine shop could check the piston-to-cylinder bore clearances correctly.

Parts:
1. ARP head stud kit
2. ARP main bearing cap stud kit
3. ARP con rod bearing cap bolt kit
4. Federal-Mogul valve keepers
5. Federal-Mogul valve springs
6. Federal-Mogul timing belt tensioner
7. Federal-Mogul 0.010" U/S main bearings
8. Federal-Mogul main journal thrust washers
9. Federal-Mogul 0.010" U/S con rod bearings
10. Toyota 0.020" O/S pistons
11. Toyota 2nd gen. oil pump (P/N 15100-19036)
12. Total Seal 0.020" O/S piston rings (part # "0816", TSS-type)
13. Toyota rebuild gasket kit, belts, CV joint boots, clutch slave cylinder, and other misc. parts

As you can see, the engine's internals are mostly stock, non hi-po parts. The only non-stock items are the ARP kits and the Total Seal rings, which I got just for "peace of mind." The point of this rebuild was just that--a rebuild. I didn't want to spend any more money on this project than I had to. The real money will be going into my 20v 4A-GE (or 4A-GZE) project later on when I really want more power.

Machine Work for Block:
1. Check block for strength and integrity
2. Cylinder bore 0.020" over and hone
3. Decked 0.010"
4. Main crank journals line-bored for trueness/straightness
5. Install new freeze plugs

Machine Work for Head:
1. Tear down, clean, and pressure test
2. Install old intake valves and new exhaust valves
3. 3-angle valve job
4. Valve seats cut
5. Block-to-head mating surface resurfaced 0.010"

Other Machine Work:
1. Crank grind 0.010" U/S
2. Complete reciprocating and rotating assembly balance
   (crank pulley, crank, con rod/piston assemblies, flywheel, pressure plate)
3. Flywheel resurface
4. Con rods checked and reconditioned

I've tried to write down what I got done each day. On some days, I didn't get a chance to work on my car, so that's why some of the dates skip. Also, all of the work took place at my house, with my car was parked in one garage and a temporary workshop in the other garage where the parts were stored, cleaned, and assembled.