Okay, so now that you have the engine completely rebuilt, or you have deemed it good enough for your purposes, you can install the sucker. Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal. I know I sound like a parrot, but follow the instructions in the BGB.
This plus this equals... -Carl
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The most important thing to do when dropping the engine into the bay is to take your time and try to line things up as well as you can. The 4A-GZE comes with a total of 5 engine mounts (The 4A-GE uses the same number of mounts. -Carl): 1 in the front, 2 on either side, 1 in the back, and 1 in the center underneath everything. We ended up using new mounts from a GT-S, since the wear and tear on the 12 year old 4A-F mounts were not to be trusted, despite some of them appearing to be very similar. Remember, the 4A-GZE in its dead stock form puts out much more torque than the 4A-F does (and probably ever will), so it's important to make sure that the engine isn't going anywhere.
We jacked up the front of the car high enough to be able to crawl underneath it and work on it. Of course, the requisite jack stands went into place, and when all was deemed safe, we began. Of course, before the freshly-rebuilt 4A-GZE went into its new home, no sense in missing out on a nice photo opportunity. Here we see the infamous George "Mr. Spyder" Hong seated in his 4AGZE-powered hand truck:
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And since I knew he wouldn't put his own goofy pic on this page, here's one of Alan, then me: -Carl
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Now without George's electrical genius, Carl and I wouldn't have been able to finish the wiring on the sucker. More on that later. Muhahahahaha...
With the engine hanging on the hoist, make sure that you have all your tools ready, and setup as well as you can with the correct fasteners and sizes for the engine mounts. Wheel the engine over to the car, and slowly start lowering the engine into the bay, swiveling and rotating it as necessary. Constantly check all around the engine to be sure that its not getting hung up on anything.
From the numerous times I've pulled and installed drivetrains in FWD cars, I find it easier to get things to line up when the engine subframe is totally loose--no fasteners holding it. This is especially useful for the rear-most mount since there's hardly any clearance to maneuver the rear bracket to straddle the rear mount--the suspension subframe and steering rack create a really confined space. -Carl
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Check out the amount of toe-out in the front wheels. That's, ohhhhh, about 5 feet of total toe out?! -Carl
Of course, it's pretty important that you have someone else around to help, as well as be able to dial 911 in case everything falls on your foot. The 3 of us constantly had to run back and forth trying to maneuver the engine into the bay. This is actually a pretty exciting time, so I'm surprised that we actually stopped to take some pictures. Here you see Carl working away:
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Once the engine looks like it is pretty much where you want it to be, you can start loosely bolting things up. We ran into some problems with a few of the mounts, namely the rear and center ones. The side mounts lined up perfectly, however, the rear one took a lot of effort to get into place. We ended up unbolting the steering rack to gain better access to the rear mount. The front mount lined up okay, and we got everything to rest where it should, except for the center mount.
For some reason, the center mount was not happy. It wouldn't line up correctly, and just plain didn't want to fit. We ended up not using the center mount at all, justified by the fact that the larger, just-as-torquey 5S-FE didn't even require one in the MKII MR2. After several months of driving, and several autocrosses, we have had no problems. The engine mount stay was also incorrect. I'm sure that one from a Levin would be better, or you could fabricate your own, however, we chose to run without one. Again, this has not proven to be an issue whatsoever. After about an hour of struggling, the engine was finally in its rightful place. Nice and stock looking, huh? Too bad Toyota never installed this from the factory into the AE92 sedan!
The GT-S's center mount doesn't even come close to lining up with the proper bolts/studs on the JDM E51's case so that its studs are properly located on the engine subframe. You'll need to get the correct JDM GZE engine mounts from Japan in order to utilize all five OEM mounts. -Carl
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This is what the bay looked like a few days later. -Carl
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After what seemed like a long time, she finally got her axles in, front wheels installed, but back on jack stands. If you look closely at the right front brake rotor, you can see how much rust is on it. -Carl
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