Since we were building a motor that was going to see some (Hahaha!)
forced induction, the basic plan was to build the motor better and stronger than an average production motor.
Hence, the ARP head and main bearing studs along with the rod bolts. But, the parts are only half the
solution. You have to make sure that you properly prep and install them. Find a good thread cleaner (I guess
a tap would work, but you have to be careful that you don't cut the good threads) and run through all of the
threaded holes where the head studs will go. Liberally apply ARP assembly lube to stud end that'll be inserted
into the block and hand tighten. If you cleaned out the threads, everything should go in like butter. Make
sure that the exposed stud heights are all about the same.
You can see brand new water and oil pumps--always cheap insurance and it's easy to do since the engine's
already in pieces. -Carl
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The working end of a fully assembled head. We slapped the head on the block and finished off the head studs. It's much easier without the camshafts, so keep this in mind. After checking that the valve lifters could freely rotate in their respective bores, we poured on some assembly lube for the camshaft journals. We kept the valve lifters organized and made sure that each one was re-installed in its original location. The valve shims were also left on the lifters, though it's almost a guarantee that you'll replacing them since the clearances will be a bit askew. Use a good torque wrench and generously apply assy lube to the camshaft bearing fasteners. These have a torque spec of 9 ft-lbs. -Carl
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We installed the rest of the timing gear for the valve clearance inspection, but it's not really necessary as long as you know where to locate the camshafts. Here we see Alan measuring the valve clearances. -Carl
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